Maritime Magic: Our Nova Scotia Journey Begins

We just returned from a two week trip to North Dakota and Minnesota, visiting both our families for the holidays. It was fun (playing with our granddaughter, hard (visiting Kate’s dad in hospice), and we covered 2,547 miles. It’s good to finally be back home in Tucson.

After the wonderful Canadian Rockies bus tour we experienced in 2023, we booked Caravan’s Canadian Maritime Provinces tour for October 2024.

We arrived in Halifax, Nova Scotia a day early so we could sightsee on Sunday before the tour began. Our visit coincided with the weekend before National Day for Truth & Reconciliation, a significant holiday when Canadians acknowledge and reflect on the history of Indigenous peoples.

The harbor boardwalk with its inviting Adirondack chairs bustled with activity.

We couldn't have asked for better weather for exploring Halifax's iconic waterfront. Kayaks bobbed alongside jet skis, and tour boats promised harbor adventures…so many options and not enough time.

The boardwalk is 2.5 miles from the Casino Nova Scotia to Pier 21. On our return to our hotel, we could relate to poor Lola the pug. After walking the boardwalk, she decided she was done. She just stopped and wouldn't move another step, even when her owner tried to drag her. Finally, was was picked up and carried!

We also saw an interesting sculpture that didn't look like much during the day but transformed into beautiful art at night.

We met our tour group that evening, and the next day we were off.

Our first stop was the storybook fishing village of Mahone Bay, famous for its three church steeples against the coastal sky. Our guide shared an intriguing tale about these churches collaborating on an unexpected venture: a brewery producing brews like "Bar Nun" and "Holy Mackerel." I searched the internet to confirm and couldn’t, so take the story with a grain of salt.

The village was celebrating its annual scarecrow festival, with whimsical displays around town. I couldn’t help but visit the delightful book club.

Next we visited Lunenburg, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that continues as a working community where historic homes share streets with active businesses. Established in 1753, it stands as North America's finest example of a planned British colonial settlement.

The town maintains its traditional architecture not just for preservation but because these buildings still serve their original purposes - as homes, shops, and gathering places. Walking its streets felt like stepping through time, where many of the first homes still remain.

The Lunenburg Academy

St. John's Anglican Church was originally built in 1753 but burned down and has been rebuilt. It is home an early version of the Bible filled with errors called the “Vinegar Bible” and a celestial ceiling depicting the star pattern from the night of Christ's birth in Bethlehem.

In the harbor, the Blue Nose II, a replica of Nova Scotia's legendary racing schooner, recalled days of maritime glory and America's Cup victories.

Next we visited Peggy's Cove, home to perhaps the most photographed lighthouse in Canada. The area around the lighthouse looks almost otherworldly.

This small community, built on massive granite formations, remains home to active fishing families who maintain Maritime traditions passed down through generations.

The Fisherman's Monument, carved from local stone by William E. DeGarthe, honors the fishing communities that have sustained this coast for centuries. It tells the story of Peggy and the countless maritime families who've made their living from the sea, facing its challenges and respecting its power.

Looking back at Peggy's Cove one last time.

Throughout our day, we witnessed how these coastal communities preserve their heritage while adapting to present-day life. Each community carried their traditions forward while welcoming those of us who want to learn about their way of life.

Until next time,
Deb

Next up: New Brunswick and the Bay of Fundy