Solitude in Snow: A Solo Yurt Winter Writing Retreat

How a solo retreat got my writing back on track and 10 things you need when spending a digital detox weekend with no running water and a vault toilet.

January 2021 ~ After having a state park across the street when I lived in Michigan, subdivision living was a challenge when I moved to North Dakota in 2020. Taking a lunchtime walk on a treadmill wasn't the same salve for my soul. I was becoming complacent, too dependent on my phone. I knew I needed to break out of my regular routine.

I booked a yurt weekend at Cross Ranch State Park, nine miles south of Washburn, North Dakota. The yurt had heat and electricity, but no water, linens, bathroom, nor kitchen facilities. I wasn’t sure what to expect so I packed my food in a cooler along with a couple gallons of water, warm linens and a cozy throw. I whipped up a crockpot full of taco soup and headed out after work on Friday for the weekend.

Cross Ranch State Park and exhibit inside the ranger station

I stayed in the Levis yurt which was named for Bob and Gladys Levis, the former owners of 11,000 acres along the western banks of the Missouri River.

When the Levis retired, they wanted people to be able to enjoy the land. In 1982, they sold nearly six thousand acres to The Nature Conservancy to create the Cross Ranch Preserve. Then, The Nature Conservancy donated 569 acres to the state for creation of a state park.

Cross Ranch State Park was dedicated in 1989, the 200th Anniversary of North Dakota's Statehood. RV sites are named for each of North Dakota's Governors with their names and years they served on a sign at each site.

Levis yurt…notice there is only a trace of snow on the ground.

The Levis yurt is smallest of the four yurts in the park. It sleeps 3 with a beautiful log chair and footstool that turns into a single bed, and a sofa that turns into a double bed.

Inside the Levis yurt

Once my bed was made, I took a sunset hike along the Ma-ak-oti "Old Village" Trail. There was ice along the riverbanks, but the water flowed smoothly with flocks of Canada geese peacefully enjoying the ride.

I kept hiking, chasing the sunset taking the path to the Upper Ma-ak-oti Trail. I no longer had the trees to shelter me from the ever-present prairie winds. I turned around and headed back.

The Ma-ak-oti Trail, icy in some spots

I didn't see many animals, just Canada geese…lots of them on the river and flocks of them overhead with their honking V formations. A couple of times I stirred them from their float, and they took off, wings flapping, barely skimming the surface of the water. It was beautiful to watch.

Watching the sun go down from the trail

Once I got back to the heated yurt, the aroma of crockpot taco soup felt like home sweet home…at least for the next 40 hours. After a visit to the vault toilet, it was time to unplug and enjoy.

The night sky on a visit to the vault toilet

I napped, hiked more than seven miles, wrote, and relaxed the rest of the weekend. Lying in bed and seeing the stars through the transparent dome in the ceiling was delightful.

Sunrise over the Missouri River

The morning I was to return home, I stepped outside into a winter wonderland. Mother Nature had lightened up the dark with a blanket of fresh fallen snow. What a difference from the day before when stepping into the inky night before daybreak.

I tidied up, folded my blankets and quilt, and reassembled the futon. I wasn't ready to leave yet though. I got my snow boots from the car and took a 2-mile hike along the river.

I could see bird and bunny track, and even the ever-present Canada geese on the river were quiet, just floating along with the river. It was peaceful, and I could imagine myself living here all Winter but…it was time to pack up and go home. 

If you're thinking about a yurt winter writing retreat, here are some of the things you’ll want to bring:

1. Warm clothing. Dress in layers and cover up with a warm coat, hat, gloves, and a scarf or neck gaiter.

2. Flashlight and Headlamp - A flashlight is an imperative. I also used a headlamp when walking on the trail in the dark because I wanted to keep my hands free for taking pictures.

3. Non-perishable snacks and easy-to-prepare meals with a crockpot for warm meals…you'll be grateful after coming in from the cold.

4. Warm bedding is a must. Turns out the heater in yurts doesn't keep the temperature as regulated as your home. You can use a sleeping bag, but I like the homey feeling of bedding, and flannel sheets are a plus. 

5. Portable speaker if you like listening to relaxing music or music while you write.

6. Books and magazines to read or get inspired by, and games to play if you get bored.

7. Your writing supplies…journal, notebook, computer, and any other items you use.

8. Wet wipes are essential if there is no running water.

9. Electric pot to warm water for cocoa, tea, or instant coffee.

10. Backpack with first aid kit if you’re planning to hike.

After texting my daughter on arrival to let her know I was safe, I didn't check email, I didn't log onto social media, and I didn't check the news. That took some concentrated effort, but it was deliciously serene. I didn't care what the world was doing. I only used my phone to log my hikes, take photos, and play the "Detox" Spotify playlist.

It felt good to stretch myself and get out of my comfort zone. I felt empowered with my writing back on track. When I checked out, I booked the bigger Bagnell yurt for a longer weekend the following month…but that’s another story.