Taos Pueblo: A Living Legacy Through Time

70 Ways to Leave Your 60s: Awestruck

If you missed last week’s post about spending a long weekend with my best friend of 35 years in Taos, New Mexico post, here is the link to check it out:

Connect, Create & Inspire: SOMOS Writers Conference

The following post was created with photos and input from my bestie Karil.

The next morning before making our way back to Albuquerque, we took a tour of Taos Pueblo, a living Pueblo Indian community over 1,000 years old.

Taos Pueblo is not considered a “reservation” because the Pueblo people were never displaced from their land. Rather, it’s a sovereign nation within the boundaries of the United States and is listed in the Registry of National Historic Landmarks.

Tours are free with a modest entrance fee. Our tour began in the courtyard of Mission San Geronimo de Taos, or St. Jerome Chapel. The church was built in 1850 after the previous one was destroyed three different times. St. Jerome is the patron saint of Taos Pueblo.

The Pueblo people are 90% Catholic, and their faith is intertwined with Native American wisdom, celebrating the sacredness of nature. Photography is prohibited inside the church.

Tours are given by Pueblo volunteers, usually college students working for tips. Our guide, Sequoia, was thorough in educating us about the history and current status of the Pueblo. She said about 30 people still live here year around with no electricity, running water, or Wi-Fi.

The multi-storied adobe buildings, constructed from earth, straw, and water, have been meticulously maintained by the Pueblo people for centuries. The structures are cool in the summer and warm in the winter.

View of the North side, one of two areas up to five stories high.

Ownership of the homes is passed down to family members, often to the matriarch’s oldest daughter, to maintain family continuity and connection to the land.

Each doorway is a home, built side-by-side in layers with common walls similar to condos. Families can add on top of or expand to the front of their home, with the approval of the Tribal Council and the Taos Pueblo Housing Authority.

The Tribal Council, composed of about 50 male tribal elders, appoint the Governor, War Chief, and staff to govern and preserve the community culture.

A few of the unique doors we saw on our tour.

Windows were introduced in the 1930s. Before that, only a hole in the roof provided light.

The Pueblo bake bread and fruit pies in the outdoor ovens. They use cedar for fuel and reach temps of 500 degrees.

Mud, straw, clay, water, woven red willow plants make up multiple layers for the very thick walls and roofs. Most families live in modern homes outside the old walls, but still on Pueblo land. Sequoia said the adobe homes require continual maintenance. Owners often must come back in the winter to shovel snow off the roofs.

Homes that are abandoned are turned over to the Taos Pueblo Housing Authority.

Several families use their homes as small shops showcasing amazing art: sculpture, painting, weaving, jewelry, drums and tomahawks. Some sell fry bread and drinks.

Fry bread is a type of flatbread that is deep-fried until golden brown and crispy on the outside, soft and fluffy on the inside. Toppings range from jam, honey, cinnamon and sugar (my favorite), or used like a tortilla to make Indian tacos.

The Taos Pueblo water comes from Blue Lake in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains.

In 1906, the U.S. Government declared the land around Blue Lake National Forest land. In 1970, the U.S. Government returned 48,000 acres of forest land and the Blue Lake watershed to the people of Taos Pueblo because of its spiritual significance. Taos Pueblo covers 99,000 acres with an elevation of 7,200 feet above sea level in the village.

The Rio Pueblo de Taos or Red Willow Creek runs through the village dividing the north from the south side of Taos Pueblo. Sequoia said the Pueblo people get their drinking water from the creek, but tourists are advised against drinking it.

The old church was destroyed three different times. Behind the short wall is a cemetery with over 150 graves of those killed when the U.S. Army bombarded the church with artillery in response to rebellions.

One of the many areas that tourists are restricted from entering. Tall branches rise from inside underground ceremonial kivas, a circular sacred space where important cultural traditions and rituals are performed (women are not allowed).

Ovens under drying racks for hunted meat or plants with Pueblo wall in background. The perimeter wall was originally covered in mica that sparkled in the sun; therefore, the Spaniards thought the Pueblo was a city of gold.

Purchasing handmade crafts directly from the artisans not only supports the local economy but also helps preserve traditional arts and crafts. Below is the entrance to “The Creative Native Gift Shop,” the gallery of Pueblo artist John Suazo, a master sculptor.

Taos Pueblo provides visitors with an unforgettable experience, blending history, culture, and natural beauty. The site is open to the public most of the year but check ahead for any closures due to cultural events or private ceremonies.

Photography is allowed in certain Pueblo areas but always ask for permission before taking photos, especially of the residents. Dress modestly and be mindful of the cultural sensitivity of the site.

It was incredible to learn that, despite lacking basic amenities like electricity, running water, and Wi-Fi, five families call this place home year-round. We also found the politics fascinating with the men running the Tribal Council and homes passed matrilineally.

On our way through town, we stopped at the Taos Courthouse to see the John Suazo’s sculpture. Beautiful!

We drove back to Albuquerque on the scenic High Road to Taos.

Karil and I stopped long enough for a quick photo op to prove we were there.

Once we got to Albuquerque, we celebrated our trip and friendship with our usual margaritas. As always, we had a phenomenal time celebrating our 35 years of friendship…until next time!